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SSDS3 Line Amp Bypass Example Installation Guide: Step 1:
Note:
The effectiveness of this mod will depend on the quality of RGB cables you use in the mini-DIN jack. Cheap cables that lack shielding for the audio lines will cause the nasty video signals to couple over into the audio a re-introduce buzz & hum. So please try to get quality coaxial shielded cables from Retro-Access (Genesis Model 2 Style), or use HD Redtrovision Genesis cables if you have access to them.
Alternatively, You can choose to run separate lines straight from the output of the mod board to RCA jacks by routing the wires around the outside of the mini-DIN box and out the port hole of the backplate. I myself went the extra mile of drilling holes for RCA jacks in the backplate itself, but I do not recommend doing this as it requires expert craftsmanship and requires soldering up the RCA jacks BEFORE you install them into the backplate. Heat transfer will crack the plastic of the backplate if you attempt to solder the jacks while they are secured to it.
The SSDS3 configuration of the Sega Genesis M1 SA mod board makes use of 75k volume attenuation resistors instead of 300K used in model 1 Genesis/Mega Drive consoles. As such, it is important to select this configuration on the sales page when ordering your amp bypass kit for the SSDS3. The major point of using this mod board is the op-amp I use is a proper 2-channel design with a higher quality chip than what comes installed in the SSDS3 by default.
This mod is simple so long as you have experience in desoldering surface mount components and IC's. I personally use high quality desoldering wick to remove the majority of the solder on these parts, and then I use a hot air station heat the components while gently lifting with electronics tweezers. You can find videos on Youtube of this technique, especially on Voultar's channel. When using a hot air station like the W.E.P. 858D, I don't recommend going any higher than 400 degrees. As shown in several of Voultar's videos, you want to use gental circular motions around all the legs you want to heat up. In my case, I grasp the part with electronics tweezers while doing this and let gravity pull the board away from the part while holding it an inch or so off the work table. Afterwords, clean up the exposed pads with some more desoldering wick and hot iron. Then use a toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol (higher percentage the better) to clean the areas of any remaining wick residue.
Right, so below are the parts that need to be removed from the board circled in red:
Note: If you have an SSDS3 with the audio cap fix (which I originally came up with while working on solutions to the 'buzzing' sound), you can desolder and remove that cap from your board when installing this bypass mod. My Sega Genesis M1 SA mod board already has the cap installed on it as part of the new op-amp circuit.
Step 2:
Now take the provided square of Scotch mounting pad, peel the white sticker side, and affix the pad to the BOTTOM of the mod board as seen below (note the board in the photo is unpopulated, but you get the idea):
Step 3:
Peel off the plaid side of the Scotch mounting pad and firmly affix the mod board to the top of the main center chip in the SSDS3. Now it's just a simple matter of soldering wires to the pads as shown in the photo below:
If you need more specific details on wiring locations, below is the list of pad designations you need to solder to:
"OUTR" goes to top pad of "C35".
Note: The outputs from my mod board in this installation do not require a ground line (which is why that middle pad at the top of the mod board is left empty). This is because the mini-DIN socket of the SSDS3 uses the analog ground pin on the video side of the board to assign ground to audio as well.
Below is a link to my Youtube video demomstration of the bypass board in action at max CD volume. I go into more detail about the advantages of installing and using this mod in the SSDS3:
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